Red pesto

Artists’ studios at Soleil Rouge
3 November 2016

Red pesto

At first, as you step into the cluttered, vast space, nothing is recognizable to the uninitiated eye. Little by little, you begin to make out intimidatingly large machines and collections of tools beyond comprehension. As you learn to see the order in disorder, things come into sharp focus: tangible sculptures and beautiful objects created from pure craft, ingenuity, and talent.

Gratinéed onion soup

Not-so-dignified French traditions
6 October 2016

What is it about the simple word gratinée that makes food so delicious? Everyone loves crisp-browned and bubbling cheese on top of gratinéed potatoes or on the ultra-classic French onion soup. Only kids have the guts to ask for “more crispy” – plus de croustillant – but when it comes time to clear the table, I’ve seen friends fight to take the gratin dish away. Why?

Ice-cold avocado, crab, and cilantro cocktail

A Modernist villa on the French Riviera
8 September 2016

Nestled between Monaco and the French-Italian border, Roquebrune Cap Martin is where the steep Alpes Maritimes tumble right into the Mediterranean Sea. Perched on three “shelves,” the town includes turquoise sea coves on the cape, staircases running in all directions, and a hilltop medieval village featuring one of Europe’s oldest olive trees. But all these features were secondary during my recent visit: I’d chosen the destination for the architectural gems that sit right along the coast.

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