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At first, as you step into the cluttered, vast space, nothing is recognizable to the uninitiated eye. Little by little, you begin to make out intimidatingly large machines and collections of tools beyond comprehension. As you learn to see the order in disorder, things come into sharp focus : tangible sculptures and beautiful objects created from pure craft, ingenuity, and talent.
Hot smoking ? Cold smoking ? Brining ? Huh ? When it comes to smoked salmon, sure – the best place to start is at home, IF you’ve got some space and a little time on your hands – that’s a big if ! So even though most busy Parisians buy their smoked salmon at the local supermarket, if they want a high-quality product, they don’t make it themselves : they know to head for the ‘burbs.
Even though the heat of July has mellowed into late August cool, I’m still craving the warm, sweetly perfumed white and yellow-fleshed peaches that arrive at the markets in Paris from the south of France. But nearly 150 years ago, Parisians stocked up on peaches that came from right here in Paris, or at least, in the neighboring suburb of Montreuil.